Mar 14, 2015
Who wants pie?!
Pi is roughly 3.14. That’s pretty much all I know about pi. I was never good at math, even though I’m Chinese and numbers should be ingrained into my DNA as powerfully as the unquenchable, vampiric desire for soup dumplings.
I do, however, understand Pie Day or 3/14, which is today. (Even more accurate and still pi, it's 3/14/15!) There are lots of places around town promoting special pies, but for this savory pie lover, there is nothing better than a nicely made chicken pot pie.
I’ve been a big fan of Komodo lately—the new fangled food truck and brick and mortar restaurant cooking up all kinds of delicious modern Asian fare often blended with other culinary flavors around the globe.
Komodo’s Chef Erwin rarely serves anything at face value. His pot pie is a good example. Instead of chicken he incorporates duck. Originally inspired by those succulent roast ducks dripping with juices and hanging in glass display cases at your local Cantonese eatery, Erwin hoped to infuse some of those rich, tempting flavors into a pot pie.
The inner life of pot pie.
A 12-hour simmered stock is made of roasted duck bone, roasted pork neck, leek, spring onions, and garlic. Then the dark brown roux flavored with bourbon comes into the mix. But the party really starts when Erwin works in shredded duck confit, roasted sweet duck sausage, spring veggies, shiitakes, and kumquat slices for some Chinese signature tastes and cultural nods.
Once these gorgeous ingredients join together and achieve a thick and creamy crescendo, they all go into a ramekin, sealed with puff pastry, and baked till golden brown.
The results are both delicate, hearty, and quite unique. And with St. Patty’s Day right around the bend, it’s truly a pot pie of gold at the end of a rainbow.
Get Komodo's Duck Pot Pie at the Pico location through March or whenever it comes up again as a special.
Komodo on Pico
8809 W. Pico Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90035
Feb 25, 2015
The Mystery of GQ Restaurant Critic Alan Richman's #25 Pick for "Most Outstanding Restaurants in U.S." or WTF is Alan Richman Smoking?
Alan Richman, restaurant critic for GQ.
Maybe I’ve been living in L.A. too long. Maybe I’ve indulged in dim sum for too many years. (I’ve eaten dim sum since I moved to Los Angeles when I was 3 years-old—virtually each weekend when I was a child with cha siu baos practically doubling as pacifiers.) Maybe I've started taking things for granted. Maybe Alan Richman knows something I don’t.
I doubt it.
My question: What the har gow is Alan Richman, GQ’s long time food critic, raving about? Awarding as one of his picks Shi Hai Restaurant in Alhambra for “GQ’s 25 Most Outstanding Restaurants of 2015”? Did any of my Los Angeles readers take notice? You should’ve because it stuck out like a sore chicken’s foot in a dim sum tin.
Mind you, this is Richman's list of “Most Outstanding Restaurants” for the entire nation—48 contiguous states plus Alaska and Hawaii—that’s a whole lotta eating places. How Shi Hai managed to score a sweet spot at #25 is mouth-boggling.
For anyone who’s not up to speed on Shi Hai Restaurant, here’s the gist: Shi Hai is a Chinese seafood and dim sum restaurant in Alhambra, CA, specializing in “modern style” dim sum—which usually means the diminutive, “touch your heart” bites of Chinese deliciousness like har gow (shrimp dumplings) are made to order and not rolled across a banquet room on steam carts waiting to be snatched up by diners as is with traditional dim sum service.
Also, modern style dim sum is usually of higher quality in both ingredients as well as technique.
During my visit to Shi Hai, I was impressed with the selections pictured on the menu, but, as many Yelpers noted, the items didn’t represent very well IRL, kinda like a bad internet date.
Dim sum, lose some.
Superior dim sum, especially at the level of a high end Chinese restaurant, should reveal expert craftsmanship cultivated from decades of time in the kitchen making dumplings, rolls, and buns. This is evident in the precision of the folds, the amount of pleats, and the pleasing mix of ingredients that distend the dumpling.
Holey dumplings, Batman!
At Shi Hai, an order of Shrimp & Bean Sprout Leaves dumplings arrived splitting at the seams or torn. Another tin of Shrimp & Chives dumplings had similar imperfections. This shoddiness I would expect to see at a Chinese deli that heavily discounts its goods, not at one of the top 25 restaurants in the country.
Moreover, the chicken feet were not ideally tender. I order chicken feet everytime I have dim sum. I know good chicken feet. I should have a trophy with talons jutting out from it. Shi Hai’s menu states that the chicken feet is in abalone sauce. Mine wasn’t.
Take some stars away for this one.
Furthermore, a Yelper noted in a photo comment that many of the “fresh” fish are “dying/dead.” I verified this with my own snapshot. In fact, our table faced the “live” fish tanks, and the first thing I noticed in the hideously murky water were several thornyheads sleeping with the fishes, um, themselves.
They're just sleeping, honey.
I’m completely baffled by how a high-profile restaurant critic like Richman included a mediocre place like Shi Hai on his exclusive list. Here’s how he justifies his choice in his piece:
“Sadly, dim sum tends to be the same everywhere: unchanging versions of shu mai and har gow roll by on carts. Terrible tea. Indifferent service. Shi Hai is way better: attentive staff. Choice of teas. Six kinds of slippery rice-noodle rolls, including one stuffed with barbecued pork and corn. It's not a Great Leap Forward, just fantastic small steps.”
Okay, I have no inkling how the guy decides which restaurants are deemed “outstanding” but “just fantastic small steps” is poor reasoning. (What is this? MasterChef Junior?) In fact, it’s the “Great Leap Forward” that should justify inclusion on the list rather than not. That said, Shi Hai isn’t even making “fantastic small steps.”
Los Angeles’ master restaurant critic Jonathan Gold is a dim sum fiend, and he seemed only lukewarm about Shi Hai. Food writer Clarissa Wei, who likes to focus on the San Gabriel Valley’s Chinese food scene, said it’s “not that good.” Eater LA’s editor Matthew Kang was surprised that Shi Hai appeared on the list. Yelpers definitely aren’t impressed with Shi Hai giving it an average of 2 1/2 stars.
Food, of course, isn’t the only measure of an exceptional restaurant, and, clearly, Richman feels Shi Hai’s attentiveness to its guests was noteworthy. I couldn’t disagree more. There are too many examples to share, most involve me thinking that our table had the power of invisibility as I tried to flag down server after server, all ignoring me, managers included.
I ordered this...
However, the worst offense was when I was given the wrong dim sum item. I had ordered the octopus (ocyopus on menu - haha) dumpling but was delivered har gow (shrimp dumpling) instead. They do not look the same. In fact, with its attempt at being artsy, the restaurant tries to make the octopus dumpling look like an octopus. The shrimp dumpling looks like a standard dim sum shrimp dumpling (but with these creepy eye marks).
When I brought this to the server’s attention (after multiple attempts at waving over one), she told me that this is what I had ordered. I politely disagreed and explained IN CHINESE that I ordered the octopus dumpling not the har gow. She passed me off to an assistant manager who also told me that I had ordered the har gow and that is what I got. Fortunately, I still had my order form to prove that I checked off the octopus dumpling. Bewildered, she went off to get the top dog manager who came over and explained that the kitchen was out of the octopus dumplings and substituted with the har gow. I asked him why nobody told me. It’s no big deal. Just let me know. Don’t make me sound like a moron. He eventually removed the har gow from the bill. If I didn’t speak Chinese, I doubt there would’ve been a resolution.
These are not the signs of an exemplary dining establishment worthy of inclusion on any “outstanding” list. So, why is Shi Hai on Alan Richman’s list? I have no clue. Maybe Alan can explain himself better.
In an apples to apples comparison, I personally would’ve given the #25 spot to China Red which is also a modern style dim sum restaurant and opened in 2014, on par with the King Huas and Lunasias of L.A.
Like I said, I have no idea what Richman is thinking. There’s no good dim sum where he’s from, so maybe he himself has little idea of what the good stuff is, but I think there’s more to it.
If Richman wants, I can show him where to eat next time he’s in L.A., but until that happens, I wish he’d stop telling me where to go, especially for dim sum.
Nov 6, 2014
Firefly—Reunited with an Old Flame. A Midsummer Night's Meal in Studio City. Firefly Restaurant, Studio City.
Firefly's library lounge. It begins here.
Some years ago, when I was working 90 hour weeks in the television industry—sitcoms in particular—I frequented a local hot spot called Firefly. It was a local hot spot because only locals seemed to know where it was. The restaurant was and is obscured by ivy and has no sign (other than the "Firefly" sign on the valet podium).
Boozy & summery.
For me, Firefly was an oasis, an escape from my overwhelming week of collating scripts and running errands for producers. No matter how frustrated I got with my "glamorous" Hollywood job, I always knew a cocktail was in my future at the patio bar.
Bloody outstanding lobster!
Admittedly, this review is a couple months late. It's autumn now (but it still feels like an endless summer in L.A.) and the dishes I had this night may be seasonal, i.e. the Compressed Watermelon or Strawberry Raviolo. However, the real point of my writing is the cooking of Firefly's chef Paul Shoemaker, as well as the irresistible desserts of pastry chef Raymond Morales.
Comfortably settled in the library lounge surrounded by leather-bound books, guests were offered canapés like the Lobster Bloody Mary with American Caviar. It tasted of oceanic perfection, the luscious, buttery lobster melding with the salty, bursting caviar. I was ready for more.
A very short short rib.
Tender as can be and boneless, the Short Rib, Smoked Potato & Red Onion Compote, was a single bite of beefy bliss on a spoon. Smoked potato shavings and sweet onion sauce boosted the flavor of the savory short rib as they should.
Taste of summer compressed into a tiny cube.
Refreshing the palate was the Compressed Watermelon, Carbonated Sugar & Thai Basil. Herby, sweet, and wet, this teensy taste was enough to reset my mouth for the real meal.
Hallelujah! It's hamachi!
Hamachi is one of my favorite fish, especially in the form of sashimi. Chef Shoemaker keeps it simple and lets the super fresh fish shine with only some heirloom tomatoes, ponzu, and smoked sesame. Firefly's sommelier Diane Deluca paired this with a 2013 Tselepos Moschofilero from Mantinia, Greece. The hamachi was buttery fresh perfection.
If I had to choose one dish for which I absolutely fell head over heels, it would have to be the scallop. The Block Island Diver Scallops, Brentwood Corn, Grandma Green Figs, Chanterelles & Bacon was ideally seared releasing gorgeous flavors which were both clean and umami-kissed. The sweet and savory sauce complemented the pillowy scallop without a fight. The entire plate was a joy for the eyes and mouth. Both vibrant in color and tastes, it was gone much too quickly.
Bone marrow plus ravioli. YES!
I'm an unapologetic bone marrow whore. I'll suck any bone to get to the good stuff. Um, sorry, let me rephrase that. I love bone marrow. Normally, I'd have to dig out this beautiful goopy beef butter myself. At Firefly, it's neatly sealed in ravioli pasta and served hot. This bite of raviolo oozed with buttery marrow and accented with truffle foam, making it light and beefy at once.
This cod piece, eh, piece of cod from Chatham stacked with smoked eggplant, spreadable Italian sausage, and piperade was a meal in itself. The mix of flavors never competed and worked well as one. Everything was quite meaty including the smoked eggplant. Although the cod itself was delicate and flaky, the rest of this plate was a hearty affair.
Beauty and the beef.
The Beef Tenderloin was a thing of beauty, just browned on the exterior and vibrant red inside. A joy to eat along with the potato pave, haricot verts. The classic bordelaise sauce brought it all together. Somm Deluca poured a 2008 Bodegas Casa Primicia Tempranillo to complement.
A modern dessert.
Pastry chef Raymond Morales' time to shine came at the end of the meal with two outstanding desserts. The first was the Strawberry Raviolo on a spoon. Bright, sweet, and slightly tart, the strawberry was happiness in dessert form. The shortbread espuma completed the modern version of a classic.
Dessert to die for.
Smoke Salt Carmelo, Baileys Ice Cream & Whiskey Foam came together to create a super dessert, as if they were The Avengers. Each brought its best aspect to the plate and made it impossible not to devour. There was caramel, coffee, sweet, crunchy, creamy, chewy, cold, warm; it was all there and it was decadent. This is what other desserts look to when they aspire to be amazing.
To sweeten the already sweet deal, a Baileys Espresso Martini came with dessert.
If I had only known reuniting with an old flame would be so incredibly delicious, I would've revisited Firefly a long time ago. Looking forward to the next rendezvous.
11720 Ventura Blvd.
Studio City, CA