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I Know a Guy. They Call Him Fat Sal. He Makes Big Sandwiches.

I'm a food writer, so I go to a lot of restaurants. Obviously! By the same token, I experience a lot of different restaurant concepts. Some of them work. Many don't. Once in a while, the concept is a home run like L.A.'s first Nashville hot chicken joint called Howlin' Ray's. It's uncomplicated, unpretentious and people love it to the point of waiting hours for a taste of Howlin' Ray's founder Johnny Ray Zone's spicy fried fowl.

A few weeks back, I tried a place I've been hearing about for a bit now and that the kids have been going nuts for. It's named Fat Sal's. And it is what it is.

The thing I thoroughly respect about a restaurant like Fat Sal's is that it doesn't pretend to be anything but what it is: a place to eat without giving an eff! Menu items like a mega-hero sandwich named Fat Jerry, stuffed silly with tasty things that you'd normally have to spread out on a platter—like ribeye steak, chicken fingers, mozzarel…

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